Know your city
The town of Darjeeling is the headquarters of the district, it is known as the Queen of the Hills and is most famous for its fine, delicate tea. At an average elevation of 6,982 feet (2,134metres) Darjeeling's temperate climate led to its development as one of the primary hill stations, during the British Raj in India, for British residents to escape the heat of the plains during the summers, becoming known as the Summer Capital or Queen of the Hills.
Darjeeling is not only internationally famous for its tea industry but also for the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The tea plantations date back to the mid 19th century as part of a British development of the area. The tea growers of the area developed distinctive hybrids of black tea and fermenting techniques, with many blends considered among the world's finest. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway connecting the town with the plains was declared a World Heritage Site in 1999 and is one of the few steam engines still in service in India.
Kalimpong the second town of the district, located about 50 kms east of Darjeeling is a bustling, lively market town noted especially for its schools. Once the headquarters of a Bhutanese Governor, the word 'kalim' means King's Minister and 'Pong' - the stronghold of the King's minister. It is also called 'Kalibong' or the black spur by the hill people. 'Kalipong' in local dialect stands for 'Kaulim' which is a fibrous plant which grows in abundance in this region. The meaning that has found the most favour is the Lepcha meaning of the name - 'ridge where we play'. It is said that these local tribesmen used to organise field sports while not engaged in agricultural pursuits - hence its name. Somewhat secluded and tucked away in the corner under the big Darjeeling umbrella, Kalimpong offers a quieter and more relaxing alternative in beautiful countryside with a fine backdrop of Kanchenjunga.
History of the city
The history of the Darjeeling District is intertwined with that of Nepal, Bhutan, Sikkim and Bengal. Until the early 19th century, the area around Darjeeling was ruled intermittently by the kingdoms of Nepal and Sikkim, with settlement consisting of a few villages of Lepcha woodspeople. In 1828, a delegation of British East India Company officials on their way to Sikkim stayed in Darjeeling and decided that the region was a suitable site for a sanatorium for British soldiers. The Company negotiated a lease of the area from Sikkim in 1835 and established a hill station there. The British began experimental tea plantations in Darjeeling in 1841. The success of these experiments led to the development of tea estates all around the town in the second half of the 19th century.
Darjeeling was annexed by the British India Empire a few years after an incident of discord between Sikkim and the Company in 1849. Scottish missionaries undertook the construction of schools and welfare centres for the British residents, laying the foundation for Darjeeling's high reputation as a centre of education. The opening of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway in 1881 hastened the development of the region. Darjeeling's elite residents were the British ruling class of the time, who visited Darjeeling every summer. An increasing number of well-to-do Indian residents of Kolkata (then Calcutta), affluent maharajas of princely states and land-owners also began visiting Darjeeling and as result the town has continued to grow as a tourist destination. After India gained independence in 1947, Darjeeling was merged with the state of West Bengal.
Kalimpong was originally part of Bhutan. In 1865, after the Anglo-Bhutan War, it was merged with Darjeeling, and became a sub-division of Darjeeling in 1916, and developed as a hill station. It flourished as a wool trading centre with Tibet till 1950, when the Chinese took over Tibet. Here Buddhism rubs shoulders with Hinduism and Christianity. Gumpas, unusual churches, temples, monks and missionaries coexist in a jovial society. The quaint bustling bazaar, is a wanderer's delight, and a host of surprises containing Buddhist thankas, hand beaten silver, Bhutanese weaves, Chinese lamps, Lepcha daggers, masks and a lot more. Kalimpong offers Buddhist Monasteries, Hindu Temples, Christian Churches, Flowers, Orchids and exotic flora, old colonial bungalows and scenic view points.
Darjeeling, along with neighbouring Kalimpong was a major center for the demand of a separate Gorkhaland state in the 1980s. The democratic movement for separation from West Bengal has begun again, this time without any accompanying violence. It has the virtually unanimous support of the local population who all speak Nepali and feel that the Bengali government of West Bengal make little investment in the Darjeeling interest and show interest only in exploiting the region's considerable natural resources.
Business in the city
Kalimpong's perhaps best known industry is flowers. It has a number of flower nurseries and is particularly famous as an exporter of unusual species of orchids and gladioli all round the world. It also has a cactus nursery that is beautiful to visit. Perhaps the least known but best earner for the city is education. Kalimpong has upwards of 200 schools quite a number of which have 1000 or more pupils (the most famous of which is Dr Graham's 3000) – and attracts pupils for all over the region. It also has a burgeoning hand made paper industry and a growing tourist industry both for its own attractions and for those of the villages in its vicinity.
Darjeeling has a very well developed tourist industry as well of course as a huge tea industry. Like Kalimpongit is also strong on education and has several British-style public schools, which attract students from many parts of India and neighbouring countries.
Around Darjeeling
Weather
Being hill towns at quite high altitude - Kalimpong at 1250m (nearly 4,000 ft) and Darjeeling at 2134m (nearly 7,000 ft) have a much cooler and more pleasant climate than the very hot and humid West Bengal plains.
Darjeeling's temperate climate has 5 distinct seasons: spring, summer, autumn, winter, and the monsoon. Summers (lasting from May to June) are mild, with maximum temperatures rarely crossing 25 °C (77 °). The monsoon season from June to September is characterised by intense torrential rains occasionally causing landslides that block Darjeeling's land access to the rest of the country. In winter, temperature averages 5–7 °C (41–44 °F), occasionally the temperatures drop below freezing and snowfalls are fairly common. During the monsoon and winter seasons, Darjeeling is often shrouded in mist and fog. Kalimpong has a similar climate but is typically around 5°C warmer at each season of the year and enjoys more sunshine.
Out & About
Both Kalimpong and Darjeeling offer exceptional views of the Kanchendzonga massif (8,300 metres). There are fine monasteries and shrines located both within the towns and in the countryside around typically on high ground providing excellent viewpoints.
Notable in Kalimpong is Deolo, a park and viewpoint including a newly opened science park with many indoor and outdoor working exhibits and Durpin Dhara, a fabulous Buddhist monastery offering a panoramic view of the unspoilt countryside.
Darjeeling
Darjeeling has a well laid out and tended zoo which houses many local animals notably the red panda, clouded leopard and Bengali tiger. Next to the zoo is the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute which contains a fine museum celebrating man's conquest of the Himalayan peaks and many memorabilia especially from Everest expeditions.
From Darjeeling it is readily possible to trek the Singalila ridge which is a national park reaching above 12,000 feet and offering superb views of Kanchendzonga and a clear but distant sighting of Everest, Makalu, Lhotse and other of the major Himalayan peaks.
En route between Kalimpong and Darjeeling is the mighty Teesta river which is fast flowing and offers exciting river rafting opportunities.
From Kalimpong it is worth exploring the local villages which are strongholds of local culture and traditional ways. The Kalimpong Village Discovery Tour is a two day (or more) experience during which you eat and sleep in villagers' homes, walk between the villages through forests and unspoilt countryside and in the evening, see a display of traditional dancing performed. All the proceeds from this venture go directly to the villages involved.
Sikkim
Sikkim is a border state of India just north of Kalimpong and Darjeeling and readily accessible from each of them. It is largely high ground and has many attractive viewpoints and features. On the border between Sikkim and Nepal is Kanchenjunga and the closest views are obtainable from here. Treks can be made up to around 4,500 metres and special expeditions can be arranged for professional mountaineers to go higher.
Transport in the whole of the Darjeeling region and Sikkim is very cheap and is mostly by shared jeeps which run frequently between all the towns and villages in the district.
North East of India
North East India is a very distinct part of the country. 9 States form this region of India and they are very individual. The more southern of the states, Nagaland, Manipur and Mizoram for example are mainly Christian or tribal and the people look more like Thais or Burmese. Their culture is very different to that of Hindu India as is the scenery. The North Eastern states are joined to the main peninsula of India by a very thin strip of land to the north of Bangladesh and travel is relatively difficult. Permits are needed to some of the states before travel but these can be obtained in India itself.
Don't be put off by the cost of travel either. Trains are amazingly good value especially if you travel overnight as your bed is included. As an example, the fare for an air conditioned coach with a bed and - around a 9 hour journey - would be around 10 pounds.
Many journeys can be done on night bus with full sleeper cabin. A 12 hour night journey would typically cost around £5 enabling you to manage you gap year on a budget.
Internal air travel is also very good value with many lost cost airlines now operating in India.
India is a most friendly and easy country to travel in, so make sure you take advantage of it while on your gap year travels!
Culture and Customs
Entertainment
During the major festival period of October/November many cultural events are held which delight locals and tourists alike with displays of traditional music and dancing celebrating the traditions of the various local communities. The dancers will often be dressed in elaborate costumes and bedecked with jewelry and make up in the colourful tradition of their particular origins. The Gorkhaland separationist political movement has in fact insisted that all the local inhabitants wear their traditional dress during the festival period and this adds colour and interest and enables ready distinguishing of origins.
The Darjeeling Carnival is a 10 day carnival held every year during the winter with the high quality portrayal of the rich musical and cultural heritage of Darjeeling Hills as its central theme.
There are cinemas in both Darjeeling and Kalimpong showing Bollywood and other movies.
Festivals & Culture
The three major religions of Hinduism, Buddhism and Christianity are well represented in the region and the major festivals celebrated therefore are Dussehra in October, Diwali in October/November, Christmas in December and Holi in March.
Dussehra is regarded as the biggest festival of the Nepali community which makes up the majority of the population of the region and is celebrated by both Hindus as well as non-Hindus. It commemorates the victory of the forces of Good over Evil and is considered an auspicious time to begin new ventures in life. It is marked by elaborate temporary shrines (pandals) containing life size figures of the goddess of power Durga, large colourful parades and feasting.
Diwali is the festival of lights and is characterized by garlands and fairy lights everywhere, fireworks and crackers each evening for three days, elaborate temporary shrines (pandals) set up in honour of the Goddess Lakshimi, troupes of girls and boys going round local houses carolling and again much feasting.
There is a diverse ethnic populace of the region, however, and these celebrate in addition several local festivals. The Lepchas and Bhutias celebrate New Year in January, the Nepalis in October/November while Tibetans celebrate it in February/March.
Food
A popular food in the Darjeeling/Kalimpong area is the momo, a dumpling containing pork, beef, chicken or vegetables usually steamed but sometimes also fried. Wai-Wai is a packaged snack consisting of pre cooked noodles which are eaten either directly from the packet dry or in soup form. Churpee, a kind of hard cheese made from cow or yak milk is sometimes chewed. A form of noodle called thukpa, served in soup form is also popular in Darjeeling. There are a large number of restaurants in both Kalimpong and Darjeeling which offer a wide variety of traditional Indian and Chinese cuisines as well as some that serve continental food to cater to the tourists. Tea is naturally the most popular beverage, procured from the famed Darjeeling tea gardens usually drunk with both milk and sugar. Strong beer and spirits are readily and cheaply available, brewed and distilled mainly in nearby Sikkim while two characteristically local drinks are Chang, a slightly sour beer made from millet, and Tongba, also made from millet but prepared and drunk in a distinctive bamboo container and through a bamboo straw.
