Know your city
Kerala is known within India as 'Gods Own Country' - a title not easily earned, but when you see the beauty of the state from the frost tipped tea estates on the Western Ghats to the sun soaked tropical beaches on the coast, it seems a suitable award! The area is becoming very popular with tourists due the variety of scenery and things to do such as sailing on the backwaters, tracking elephants or even tigers in one of the many wildlife parks, following the spice trail from the days of Vasco de Gama or just relaxing on the pristine white beaches. In fact Kerala has been rated in the top three tourist destinations by the World Travel & Tourism Council and featured in National Geographic Traveler's '50 greatest places of a lifetime'.
Kochi is the second city of Kerala, until quite recently it was called Cochin (most people still call it Cochin), the name being changed in line with other cities in India to take it back to the original form pre colonialism. From 1100 AD Kochi was the seat of the Kingdom of Cochin, a princely state, which was only given up by the Maharaja when the Indian Union was formed at Independence in 1947.
The natural harbour and sheltering islands of the area made Kochi an ideal location for a seaport and from the 14th century it became an important center for the burgeoning spice trade as it was on the direct route from East to West. The seaport has grown to be able to deal with bulk container ships and tankers also some of the world's largest cruise ships come to stop off for a couple of days.
Cochin Island has wonderful reminders of days gone by such as the Chinese Fishing Nets that still work off the point of Fort Kochi, Kathakalli Dancing and Jew Town where a beautiful synagogue and only a handful of Jews remain.
History of the city
The city has a rich historical legacy with the Arabs, Chinese, Dutch, Portuguese and finally the British who had each set up trading posts here at various times using the town as a hub of trade & industry. Each of them has left something behind in culture, architecture, language and religion.
From 1498 to 1663, Fort Kochi was ruled by Portugal and Cochin saw a great amount of commercial activity during these years. The spice trade was brought to Kochi by the Portuguese explorer and trader Vasco de Gama, the first European to set sail for India. This followed immense wealth for a few families in Kochi who capitalized on the potential by planting acres of different spices.
The city as it is today came into being in 1967 when the merger of some of the neighbouring towns and villages like Mattancherry, Fort Cochin, Palluruthy, Thoppumpady and Willingdon Island all merged into the Greater Cochin area. Today the city continues to grow with Edapally, Trikkakara, Kakanad and Tripunithara becoming part of Kochi. Ernakulam is the land based part of Kochi, with the remainder being islands off its coastline, this is the commercial and main residential part of the city.
The cities rich historical legacy is still well preserved in Fort Cochin which retains some of the ambience of its colonial past with its Chinese fishing nets, stately bungalows amid beautiful gardens and ancient trees, the Dutch palace and the St. Francis church where Vasco Da Gama was originally buried though later his remains were moved to a church in Lisbon.
Business in the city
Kochi is the economic capital of Kerala by volume of trade; though, unlike the other major South Indian cities of Chennai and Bangalore, Kochi has been slow to industrialise. In recent years the city has rejuvenated from its economic stagnation and has witnessed heavy investment, thus making it one of the fastest-growing second-tier metro cities in India.The economy of the city can be classified as a business economy with emphasis on the service sector, particularly tourism and everyone seems to be involved in one way or another. There are several 5 star hotels like The Taj hotels in Cochin, Kumarakom and Varkala, The Brunton boatyard in Cochin, Coconut Lagoon in Kumarakom, Spice village in Thekkady, Marari Beach resort near Alleppey etc. Besides these there are plenty of budget hotels and also several home stays - anyone who has a free room immediately converts their home into a home stay!
The plantation business that is Spices, Tea, Coffee, Vanilla etc. have seen better days and waxes and wanes from year to year. Most of the rubber in India is grown in Kerala so there are some industries that are rubber related.
The coconut palm makes a large contribution to the economy as it has many uses. Much of India's coir is produced here and is now woven into pretty rugs that find a worldwide market.
Other business sectors include gold and textile retailing, seafood and spices exports, information technology, tourism, health services, banking, shipbuilding, and the fishing industry. The economy is mostly dependent on trade and retail activities. The city also houses Kerala's only bourse-the Cochin Stock Exchange.
Kochi is fast becoming a key destination for IT companies and is today ranked as the second-most attractive city in India for IT-based services. Availability of cheap bandwidth through undersea cables and lower operational costs compared to other major cities in India, has been to its advantage.
MG Road teems with numerous shops & stores and also has some hotels and several restaurants. Jewellery shops are a dime a dozen as the Keralite loves the yellow stuff and both rich and poor invest in gold! Besides MG Road one can also shop at the Esplanade Mall that has all the brands, while Marine Drive and thereabouts is a great place for bargains.
Around Cochin
Weather
Kochi's proximity to the equator along with its coastal location results in little seasonal temperature variation, with moderate to high levels of humidity. Annual temperatures range between 20 to 35 °C (68-95 °F) and record highs of low 17 °C (63 °F). From June through September, the south-west monsoon brings in heavy rains as Kochi lies on the windward side of the Western Ghats. From October to December, Kochi receives light rain from the northwest monsoon, as it lies on the leeward side. Average annual rainfall is 3,500 millimeters (138 in), with an annual average of 132 rainy days.
Out & About
Kochi itself, with its rich history has a lot to see and do. The huge cantilevered Chinese fishing nets are a landmark of the Malabar coast. The nets first came into being in the year 1350 and are set up on teak wood and bamboo poles can be seen along the entire stretch of the coast and are mainly used during high tide. The Vasco Da Gama square affords the best view of these nets and is dotted with little restaurants that serve the sea-food that has been caught fresh out of the nets.
The Santa Cruz Basilica is a historic Roman Catholic Church which was built by the Portuguese. It was elevated to a Cathedral by Pope Paul the fourth in 1558. The church was demolished by the British in 1795. In 1887 a new building was constructed on the same site and was proclaimed a Basilica by Pope John Paul the second in 1984. The church has a rich collection of beautiful paintings.
Vasco House is a 16th century building and one of the earliest residences in Fort Cochin. The European glass pane windows, the balcony and verandahs are noteworthy.
The Bishop's house near the parade ground was built in 1506. It was the residence of the Portuguese Governor and is noted for its beautiful façade with large Gothic arches. It was taken over by the Dome Jos Gomes Ferreira, the 27th bishop of the Diocese of Cochin whose jurisdiction extended over India, Burma, Malaya and Ceylon.
The Dutch cemetery was consecrated in 1724 and has hundreds of tombstones of Europeans who are buried here.
St Francis church was built in 1503 by Portuguese Franciscan friars and is believed to be the first church built by the Europeans in India. The church was originally built in wood but in the 16th century it was rebuilt in stone. Vasco Da Gama, the discoverer of the sea route to India died in Cochin in 1524 and was buried here. After 14 years his mortal remains were taken to Portugal. The tombstone still remains in the church.
The Jewish Synagogue was built in 1568 and is the oldest one in India. The Synagogue was partially destroyed during the Portuguese raid in 1662 but was later rebuilt by the Dutch. The clock Tower was later added to the structure in the mid-eighteenth century . The floors were laid with exquisite hand-painted tiles from China. No two tile is exactly alike. The Synagogue houses the Great Scrolls of the Old Testament, the copper plates showing the grants of privilege made by the Cochin rulers, Hebrew inscriptions on stone slabs and chandeliers from Belgium. The township (Jew town) around the Synagogue is known for the spice trade and several antique shops.
The Dutch Palace was built by the Portuguese and presented to the Raja (King) of Cochin, Veera Kerala Varma, in 1555. The palace was later taken over by the Dutch and renovations made to it. The palace has fine murals, depicting scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. Royal costumes, palanquins and a portrait gallery of the royal family down the ages are also on display.
An ecologically sensitive area, the Mangalavanam Bird Sanctuary is located in the central part of the city. It has a wide range of mangrove species and is nesting ground for a Cochin: Out and About
vast variety of migratory birds. Certain species of dolphins are also present in the backwaters.
There are several islands around Cochin, some of the more interesting ones being Vypeen and Bolghatty. At the tip of Vypeen island is the picturesque Cherai beach.
Leaving Kochi there is a lot to see around the state of Kerala, here are a few places to visit:
Allapuzha, also called the Venice of the East, is located 63 kilometers from Cochin. This is the land of amazing backwaters and the famous snake boat races are conducted here. The Nehru Trophy boat race is among the most popular one. The Chundan Vallam is a 130 foot long snake boat and requires 100 rowers, 4 helmsmen and 25 cheerleaders to take part in the race. The Allapuzha-Kollam stretch has the best backwaters and one can take a houseboat from here for a few hours or an overnight stay.
Aluva is an important pilgrim center on the left bank of the Periyar river, 25 kilometers from Cochin. The annual Shivrathri fair in February is celebrated here with great religious fervour.
Guruvayoor is a major Hindu pilgrim center and is 111 kilometers from Cochin. The famous Sree Krishna Swamy temple is located here. Many Hindu marriage ceremonies are conducted here as also the first feeding ceremony of the child.
Kaladi is another important Hindu pilgrim center on the banks of the river Periyar. It is 45 kilometers from Cochin. The great Advaitha philosopher and Bhakti saint of the 8th century Adi Sankaracharya was born here.
Kodanadu lies 45 kilometers from Cochin on the southern banks of the river Periyar. It is famous for an elephant training camp. If you get there early in the morning you can join in the bathing and feeding of elephants especially the babies that have been rescued from the forests.
Munnar is a beautiful hill station about 138 kilometers from Cochin. It is a holiday resort and is full of lush green tea estates and cardamom plantations.
Trivandrum is the capital of Kerala and houses the state government buildings. The majority of the population here are Hindus hence you would find some lovely temples here. Close to Trivandrum is the famous Kovalam beach which unfortunately has now been commercialized beyond recognition. Varkala also close by still retains some nice beaches
Calicut is a city in the far north of Kerala and has a rich historical legacy. Its seashore is probably the least developed in the state and hence it has some of the most pristine beaches.
The Kerala Tourism board conducts sight seeing tours, including boat and coach tours. India is one the most friendly and easy country to travel in, so make sure you take advantage of it!
Don't be put off by the cost of travel either. Trains are amazingly good value especially if you travel overnight as your bed is included. As an example, the fare for an air conditioned coach with a bed and bedding form Kochi to the Nilgiri mountains - around a 9 hour journey - is around 10 pounds.
Internal air travel is also very good value with return flight from Kochi to Delhi at around 80 pounds and to Goa or Bombay for around 60 pounds.
Culture and Customs
Entertainment
Kathakali is an individual style of dance-drama that has emerged as a 'people's theatre' from the traditional dances of the past. The plays were performed by the 'Rajah's' own company of actors not only in temples and courts but from village to village and house to house. The new art form (called Ramanattam) soon became very popular all over the 'Malayalam' (Keralan) speaking area. The feudal chieftains of 'Malabar' (as the area was then called) began to vie with one another in their efforts to produce the best Kathakali troupes and this competition contributed to the rapid development of the art in a very short period. There are dances held every evening in Cochin and are spectacular to watch, training takes years and the dancers take up to 3 hours just to have their make up done!
Kerala has a well-developed health care system and besides the allopathic system of medicine it is famous for its ayurvedic concoctions and massages. Ayurveda is now being recognised in the West as a complimentary medicine alongside traditional healing methods but as a traveller one needs to be discerning about where you go as several massage parlours have sprouted riding on the fame of the ayurvedic massages but not really offering the genuine product.
Multi-cuisine restaurants can be found in abundance alongside 5 star hotels offering all the usual facilities.
Festivals & Culture
With Kochi being a melting pot of different religions - Hinduism 47%, Christianity 35%, and Islam, Jainism, Judaism, Sikhism and Buddhism in lesser numbers - it sometimes feels as if every other day is a festival!
Appropriate to its multi-ethnic composition, Kochi celebrates traditional Kerala festivals like Onam (harvest festival) and Vishu along with North Indian Hindu festivals like Holi and Diwali with great fervour. Christian and Islamic festivals like Christmas, Easter, Eid ul-Fitr and Milad-e-sherif are also celebrated. A merry making fest called the Cochin Carnival is celebrated at Fort Kochi during the last ten days of December.
The city once had a large Jewish community, known as the Malabar Yehuden - and now increasingly as Cochin Jews - that figured prominently in Kochi's business and economic strata. Most Cochin Jews now live in Israel.
Food
The Keralites, being a coastal state, have a staple diet of fish of which there are many variations on the theme; wrapped in banana leaves with spices and coconut and steamed, cooked in coconut milk and spices, served with a spicy tomato and coconut gravy or fried whole with a chili massala. You may have noticed that many of the dishes include coconut which is found in great abundance here, if you don't like coconut you may have trouble here!
Generally food is prepared hot and spicy, although European tastes are much more catered for now. There are many vegetarian dishes around but it has to be said that Keralites are very partial to non-vegetarian food. In Cochin all manner of food is available for every taste - Chinese, Thai, Italian, North Indian and continental.
